Today I bring you to Tierra del Fuego, the last stop on our journey through Argentina. Known as the southernmost province in the world, Ushuaia comes from the Yagán language. “Ush” meaning “at the bottom” and “waia” meaning “bay”, giving it the name of “the bay at the bottom”.
How to get to Ushuaia?
Ushuaia’s geographical situation is rather complex, given that it is located in the Argentine part of Tierra del Fuego (shared with Chile). The city is served by an international airport that is generally well connected to the rest of Argentina, but there are also numerous bus connections to the city from Chile and southern Argentina.
We flew in from El Calafate with Aerolineas Argentinas. Then we took a cab to the center of Ushuaia, which is only 5km from the airport. Note that uber works very well in this city.
When is the perfect time to explore Ushuaia?
The best time to visit Ushuaia is from October to April. We went in November and had very good weather (cold but sunny), but be careful: from December to March, Ushuaia is very busy with tourists.
The subpolar climate of the southern point of Argentina, where Ushuaia is located, is characterized by continuous cold throughout the year, with temperatures rarely exceeding 15 degrees during the Patagonian summer.
Things to do in Ushuaïa:
Tierra del Fuego National Park
Located 12km west of Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego National Park was created in 1960. It extends over 63,000 ha, at the southernmost tip of the Andes mountain range, on the shores of the Beagle Channel.
The Senda Costera
This trail runs along the coast from Ensenada Bay to Lapataia Bay, offering sublime views of the Beagle Channel. As you walk, let yourself be carried away by the song of the seabirds and the sound of the waves. The 8km hike takes around 3 to 4 hours (one way) and is accessible to all.
It’s the perfect opportunity to see the post office at the end of the world. Set on a pier overlooking the bay, it’s well worth a visit, inaugurated on December 12, 1997. The post office sells passports for the Principality of the Country of Redonda Island, accrediting you as a “citizen of the principality” and “pledging to live without rights or obligations, in freedom and in whatever you please”.
Ascent of Cerro Guanaco:
For the adventurous, climbing Cerro Guanaco is a rewarding challenge. After an uphill climb lasting 4-5 hours, the summit offers breathtaking panoramic views of the mountains and the Beagle Channel.
At first, the route is relatively flat, following the Hito XXIV trail along the Lapataia River and Lake Roca, then you’ll find a division where the Cerro Guanaco trail begins and, from there, a colorful old Lenga forest that you’ll cross as the trail becomes extremely steep, requiring greater physical effort (and good shoes!).
Access to this trail is subject to a fee at the park entrance. Then, at the visitor center (3rd bus stop), you must fill in a registration form with your passport number to climb the mountain.
Excursion on the Beagle Channel:
“The most beautiful contrast ever seen between sea and ice” – Charles Darwin during his navigation aboard the ship Le Beagle through the strait that would become the Beagle Channel.
The Beagle Channel was named after a British ship, the HMS Beagle, which carried out two expeditions along the coast of Tierra del Fuego between 1826 and 1836. Following the suicide of the commander of the first expedition, Captain Robert FitzRoy was entrusted with hydrographic and cartographic missions in the region. He also took on board the famous naturalist Charles Darwin, who would later elaborate his theory of evolution.
Isla de los Lobos & The “Phare des Eclaireurs”
Taking the boat from Ushuaia harbour, you sail across the bay to the ‘Isla de los Lobos’, past a colony of Cormorants and the famous ‘ Phare des éclaireurs’, all surrounded by glacier and rocky scenery. It’s a must-see excursion in the province of Tierra del Fuego.
Many tourists sail on the Beagle Channel, but in order to respect the wildlife that surrounds us, I highly recommend Paludine for your excursion. A navigation that respects the environment, you embark on a small motorboat for about ten people, far from the tourist boats…
Isla Martillo: The Pingüinera
Around 90 kilometers from Ushuaia lies Martillo Island, better known as the “penguin colony” and the only one in Tierra del Fuego.
Between October and April, you can observe two species of penguin that spend their breeding season on this channel island: the Magellanic penguin and the Gentoo penguin, albeit in smaller numbers.
The laguna Esmeralda hike
The trail is about 9 kilometers round trip, and will take you about 4 to 5 hours. This is a moderate hike, so it’s accessible even if you’re not an experienced hiker. You will encounter some slippery sections, especially after rain, so make sure you wear suitable footwear.
The best part of this hike? The Laguna Esmeralda itself! This glacial lake with its turquoise waters is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. It’s a magical place where you can sit back, relax and enjoy the view. Believe me, photos don’t even do justice to the beauty of this place.
The path leading to the lake is also very pleasant, and once you have passed the end of the forest, you can see the snow-capped mountains.
If you love nature and beautiful landscapes, this is an adventure not to be missed!
NB: ‘It is not possible to start the hike after 1 p.m. in winter and 3 p.m. in summer. The trailhead is located 12km from downtown Ushuaia and is accessible by car or cab (we used the uber app). The hike is free.
There are many other activities that we didn’t have time to do, such as:
The Tren del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Train)
The Tren del Fin del Mundo is a tourist train that runs along an 8 km railroad line between Ushuaïa (Fin del Mundo Station) and Tierra del Fuego National Park (Parque Nacional Station).
The train follows part of the route of the historic railway line (Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino) used by prisoners from 1910 to 1947, mainly to transport firewood to Ushuaïa prison.
The ticket for the train is not included in the ticket for the Tierra de Fuego National Park and costs 45 USD for a single cabin and 85 USD for a premium cabin. If you want to try the experience, I would recommend booking 3 days in advance, as we were there in November and everything was fully booked 48 hours in advance.
Cerro Martial
The glacier, located at the summit of the Martial Mountains, owes its name to Captain Ferdinand Martial of the Cape Horn Scientific Mission, a French expedition to the Cape Horn region that arrived in Tierra del Fuego in September 1882 aboard the ship Romanche.
To get to the Martial Glacier from the center of Ushuaia, you can take a cab or bus to the base of Cerro Martial, where the trail to the glacier begins.
If you’d like to find out more about the ascent of the glacier, take a look here.
In addition to its natural wonders, Ushuaïa has a rich cultural history, marked by the Yámana indigenous peoples, European explorers and the development of the region over the centuries. The End of the World Museum and Ushuaïa’s former penal colony are must-sees to understand the history and heritage of this unique region.
I was seduced by the spectacular scenery, between mountains and seas, of the world’s southernmost city. We were there for 3 days, but if you like hiking, I would recommend 4 to 5 days.
m'digital nomad 
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